by De'Vonna Pittman, Founder of Nature's Syrup Beauty
They celebrate the big chop with you.
They cheer the teeny-weeny afro, the fresh start, the boldness it takes to start over.
Nobody tells you about the middle.
That awkward, beautiful, frustrating, humbling stretch between the beginning and the length you're working toward. Where your hair is too short for most styles but too long to be the baby TWA people fussed over. Where you look in the mirror some mornings and feel proud, and other mornings reach for a hat.
I'm in it right now. Seven inches from my scalp after cutting all the way down. And I want to talk about it, because I think too many women either rush through this stage or give up on it entirely.
This Stage Has a Name, and It Deserves More Respect
If you've big chopped before, or if you're growing out a TWA for the first time, you know exactly what I mean by the middle. It's the stage that doesn't get the before-and-after photo. It's the growth journey in real time.
Your curls are waking back up after years of heat, chemicals, or tension. Some sections are coming in tighter than you remembered. Some sections are looser. Your hair is showing you who it actually is, maybe for the first time in years, and it is asking you to pay attention.
Here's what surprised me most: I forgot what my hair needed. I've been in this industry for years. I formulate products for natural hair. And when I cut back down to almost nothing, I still had to relearn.
"The truth is that as you age, your hair needs something different. The routine that worked at 30 is not the routine your hair is asking for now. And that's not a problem. That's an invitation."
What Changes When You're Older and Going Natural
Older natural hair, the hair that comes back after your 40s or 50s, grows back with a different relationship to moisture. Hormonal shifts change the scalp's oil production. The curl pattern may be tighter in some places, softer in others. The strand itself is often finer and more fragile than you remember.
What this means practically is that you cannot care for this hair the way you cared for the hair you had twenty years ago. It needs more gentleness. More intentional moisture. More scalp attention. And less of what worked before.
Going natural isn't just a haircut. It's a whole relearning of who your hair is right now, at this age, in this season of your body. And the midpoint of that journey, around the TWA growth stage where your hair has enough length to need a real routine but not enough to fall back on old habits, is where most women need the most support.
What I'm Actually Using at 7 Inches
I'm not going to pretend I have a perfect system. I'm figuring this out one wash day at a time, just like you are. But I can tell you what's working for me right now, and why.
Rosemary, Mint, and Papaya Shampoo Bar
At this stage, a clean scalp is everything. Short hair means your scalp is more exposed, more active, and more in need of attention than when your hair was longer and acting as a buffer. This shampoo bar gives me a thorough cleanse without stripping the moisture I've spent all week building in. The papaya enzymes help with buildup. The rosemary and mint wake up the scalp. It feels like a reset every time I use it.
Batana and Red Palm Oil Hair Mask
This is my weekly deep conditioning moment. Batana oil, which comes from the nut of the American palm, has been used for generations for hair and scalp restoration. Paired with red palm oil, rich in vitamins A and E, this mask does something I feel more than I see: it makes my hair respond. It bends without breaking. It stays soft longer. For hair that's coming back from chemicals or heat damage or just years of life, this level of nourishment isn't optional.
Curl Custard
At seven inches, I am just now getting to work with my curl pattern again. The curl custard defines without crunch, holds without stiffness, and gives my coils something to actually express themselves. I've had to remind myself to enjoy this part, to let each kink and coil be exactly what it is without trying to manipulate it into something it's not ready for yet. The custard helps me do that.
Hair Growth Activator Oil
This one is non-negotiable at every stage, but especially now. Two to three times a week, I section my hair, warm the oil slightly, and massage it into my scalp. I take my time with it. This is where I check in with my edges, my crown, my nape. This is the part of my routine that feels like self-care in the truest sense.
The rosemary and peppermint in this oil are not just fragrance. They support circulation. They signal the follicle. And after menopause changed the relationship I had with my own hair, having something that I formulated specifically for scalp health has made every difference.
"I'm taking it one day at a time. My hair is growing. It's healthy. It's natural. And I'm learning to embrace every kink and coil all over again. That's not a setback. That's the whole point."
If You're Thinking About the Big Chop, Read This First
Whether this is your first time going natural or your second, whether you're coming off a relaxer or growing out heat damage or simply ready to start over, I want you to know something:
The beginning is exciting. The middle is where the real work is. And the middle is where most people need to hear someone say: you are not behind. You are right on time.
Your hair at three inches is not a failure. Your hair at seven inches that still won't do what you want is not a failure. Your hair growing back differently than it did before is not a failure.
It is your hair, becoming itself, on its own timeline. Your job is to nourish it, protect it, and get out of its way.
A few things that help in the middle:
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Simplify your routine. At this stage, less is more. Clean the scalp, condition deeply, seal in moisture.
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Focus on scalp health. Everything you see grows from what you can't. A nourished scalp changes everything.
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Let go of length as the goal, at least for now. Moisture, definition, and health are what this stage is for.
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Give it 90 days on any new product before you decide it isn't working. Consistency is the only magic formula.
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Be gentle. With your hair, and with yourself.
The Products That Are Carrying Me Through
Every product I'm using right now is one I made. Not because I'm the founder, but because I made them for exactly this kind of season. For women who are starting over. For hair that is waking back up. For scalps that need attention and strands that need gentleness.
If you're in the big chop journey with me, or thinking about starting one, you can find the full collection of natural hair products I'm using at www.naturessyrup.com. Or come see me in person at the Curls and Culture Lounge inside Baker Center in Downtown Minneapolis. I love talking through what your hair actually needs at whatever stage you're in.
We're in this together. One inch at a time.
Frequently Asked Questions: Growing Out Natural Hair After the Big Chop
How long does it take to grow out a TWA?
Most women see about half an inch of growth per month, meaning a teeny-weeny afro can reach 4 to 6 inches within a year. The timeline varies based on genetics, scalp health, and how consistent your moisture and growth routine is. Focusing on retention, keeping what grows, matters more than speed.
What should I use on my natural hair after a big chop?
At the TWA and early growth stages, focus on three things: a gentle sulfate-free cleanser to keep the scalp healthy, a deep conditioning mask used weekly to restore moisture and elasticity, and a scalp growth oil massaged in two to three times per week. A curl-defining product helps as your pattern becomes more visible.
Does natural hair grow back differently after menopause or as you age?
Yes. Hormonal changes can alter curl pattern, density, and how the scalp produces oil. Hair often grows back finer or with a slightly different texture. The key is meeting your hair where it is now rather than trying to recreate what you had before. Gentler, more moisture-focused care is usually what aging natural hair responds to best.
Is the big chop worth it?
For most women, yes. Starting fresh removes damage, gives you a clean baseline, and allows your natural texture to come in without compromise. The middle stage is challenging, but the women who stay consistent through it almost always say they wish they had done it sooner.
How do I embrace my natural hair at every stage?
Start by releasing the expectation that your hair should look a certain way right now. Each inch is its own chapter. The TWA stage, the awkward middle, the first time your curls clump without help, these are all moments worth celebrating. Give your hair what it needs today and let tomorrow take care of itself.
Nature's Syrup Beauty | www.naturessyrup.com | @naturessyrupbeauty
"Fearfully and wonderfully made." — Psalm 139:14
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